Usefulbox Sewing School

Choosing a sewing pattern

Where to buy patterns, and the designers we love — from Caz.

Sewing is like putting a jigsaw puzzle together. To get our puzzle pieces, we need a sewing pattern to cut the fabric into the shapes we need to make up the garment.

It takes some practise to learn to read a pattern and find the ones that work well for your body. I know the pattern companies that fit me best and that I enjoy sewing.

So let’s get started. There are 3 main ways of buying a sewing pattern — you may recognise the first if your mother or grandmother sewed!

1

Paper patterns from Spotlight or Lincraft

The more traditional way to purchase a sewing pattern is from the main pattern companies, known as The Big 4: Vogue, McCall’s Patterns, Butterick and Simplicity (which includes New Look and Kwik Sew). At your local fabric store there will be large books dedicated to these companies. I call these Commercial Patterns.

They usually produce one book per season, and the book is broken up into different garments with dividers such as dresses, separates and so on. Each pattern has a dedicated page and a dedicated number. When you have chosen the pattern you would like, take note of the company along with the number you see in big letters on the page.

Take this info to the serving counter and the assistant will go and find it for you in their massive drawers. And then you have a perfectly folded neat pattern — enjoy that, as they’ll never be the same again!

On the back of the envelope you will see a whole shopping list of everything you need to make up the pattern. It also tells you how much fabric to buy depending on what size you would like to make. Always take note of the fabric suggestions, as the designers make the pattern with that fabric in mind — the success of your garment does depend on fabric choice.

Pro tip: These patterns run a little large. When I work out what size I should make, I always go down a size or two, as the sizing is very generous.

2

PDF patterns from independent designers

Welcome to the wonderful world of indie pattern companies! These companies specialise in PDF patterns which you can print at home and save to your computer. This is my preferred way of buying patterns.

Most print-at-home files are A4 or letter sized, and you will need to stick them all together using the matching prompts on the pattern. This can be tedious and is not my favourite thing to do.

However, indie designers now offer the file to be printed at a copy shop onto A0 paper, which is the largest size. This is much more practical for time and is quite affordable — about $4 per page at my local Officeworks.

Once you have all the pieces put together, or the A0 sheet, you then trace the pattern onto some tracing paper or trace’n’toile interfacing. Or, as my Mum used, baking paper (Aldi have the widest in Australia!).

I favour these types of patterns for a couple of reasons: supporting small business, styles that I prefer to wear, and sizing that is much truer to actual size.

Pro tip: The cost of these patterns plus printing on A0 is very comparable to a commercial pattern. I don’t find one is more expensive than the other.

3

Pattern books

Pattern books are lovely things to keep and use again and again. You might even find some in your local library.

The most popular in the blogosphere, and for super cute reasons, are Japanese pattern books for kids and women.

Pro tip: These aren’t for the faint hearted. The tracing is next-level tricky, and they don’t often include seam allowance.

Before we get started with suggestions galore, I should add that Instagram is a great resource for pattern sourcing and research. You can look up a specific pattern’s hashtag and see all the different versions on all different body shapes. It’s a great resource to have!

See the Ogden Cami on Instagram

Indie pattern designers we love

Broken up by skill level, plus kids, curvy and accessories.

Beginners

  • Peppermint Magazine

    A fabulous resource of free patterns made by some of the best young pattern designers. The Pocket skirt, Bardon dress and Everyday dress are great ones to start with.

  • Helen’s Closet

    Helen is from Canada (and one half of the Love to Sew podcast) and she is one of my favourite designers. Her patterns are a great fit for everyone and she really focuses on beginners with her beautiful detailed instructions and accompanying resources on her website. I can’t recommend these patterns enough!

  • True Bias

    So many good patterns for beginners — the Ogden Cami and Hudson pants are the most sewn on Instagram.

  • Sew to Grow

    Lindsay-Rae, an American living in QLD, is so focused on helping beginners learn to sew that she even has her own club! The Bondi top is a great place to start.

  • Tilly & the Buttons

    Tilly was a contestant on the first Great British Sewing Bee. She didn’t win, but she has since built a pattern empire. Her patterns are geared towards beginners and have lots of information in her instructions, blog and YouTube channel. Be mindful though — her patterns do run a little small.

  • Wiksten

    The Wiksten shift dress is one of the easiest and most flattering shift dresses out there. In fact, come along to one of our workshops to make it yourself!

  • Nerida Hansen Patterns

    Lovely Gorman-style patterns. Buy with her fabric and it’s a match made in sewing heaven!

  • Sew Over It

    From London, these patterns are great for beginners and there is lots of choice with a vintage vibe.

  • Grainline Studio

    The Scout tee is great for beginners.

  • Chalk and Notch

    Lovely feminine patterns which are easy to sew. You can even do Mummy & Me matching!

  • Sew House 7

    My favs are the Free Range slacks and the Toaster sweater — in fact, I am wearing them both now!

  • Sew Liberated

    I love the Gypsum skirt and the Hinterland dress.

  • Itch to Stitch

    Kennis just pumps out so many patterns, beginner to advanced!

  • Named Clothing

    I really love the Inari dress.

  • Wardrobe By Me

    A great resource of basics for women, men and kids.

  • Made by Rae

    Lovely easy styles for women and kids.

  • Anna Allen Clothing

    The Pomona pants and Demeter dress are great patterns to start with.

  • Honey Rose Designs

    Feminine patterns, based in the Blue Mountains.

  • Forget Me Knot Patterns

    Start with the Ella ruffled skirt.

  • Friday Pattern Company

    Great unisex patterns. The Wilder gown is stunning!

  • Sew DIY

    Try the beginners bundle.

  • Seamwork

    A subscription-based platform focusing on beginners. Lots of good resources.

  • Deer & Doe

    Feminine patterns from Europe. The free Plantain tee is one of my favourites to make and wear. Note: Deer & Doe has since joined Closet Core Patterns, so their patterns now live on the Closet Core site.

  • Jalie

    Great for scrubs and activewear.

  • Assembly Line

    Cool and chic patterns.

  • Nina Lee
  • Ready to Sew

Adventurous beginner

  • In the Folds

    Emily’s patterns are some of my favourites. Most are for an adventurous beginner and the instructions are perfect. You might recognise someone in the pictures!

  • Elbe Textiles

    Lauren is from Perth and I love her aesthetic — her patterns are wonderful to sew! I love the Fremantle pants and Trigg shorts for beginners, and the Cornell shirt for those more adventurous.

  • Megan Nielsen

    Megan is from Perth and her patterns are beautiful. Some are great for beginners, like the Reef PJs, Eucalypt tank or River dress. But then there are others which would need more experience, like the Dawn jeans and Darling Ranges.

  • Papercut Patterns

    From NZ, Papercut have a unique style. I loved making their Palisade pants and Axis dress.

  • Paper Theory Patterns

    Tara has a focus on sustainability which I love. Her Zadie jumpsuit is super popular.

  • Style Arc

    While there are some great beginner patterns at Style Arc, the instructions are very, very sparse so I don’t recommend them to beginners. There is a MASS of patterns here and they seem to launch one every week! From Melbourne.

  • Closet Core Patterns

    Heather Lou is one of the pioneers of PDF patterns and her patterns are beautifully drafted and a joy to make. She has lots of free resources on her blog along with online classes. My favourite patterns are the Carolyn PJs, Ginger jeans and Elodie wrap dress.

  • Tessuti

    Tessuti is a wonderful, but pricey, fabric store in Surry Hills and Melbourne. They also have great patterns. Some are easier than others — I’ve included them in adventurous as they do have some industry skills in the instructions which take some practice. Also, hot tip: these run a little large so maybe size down.

  • By Hand London

    When you need a dress for a special occasion, start here!

  • Jennifer Lauren Handmade

    From NZ, these patterns have a vintage feel.

Intermediate

  • Pattern Fantastique

    Oh my! I love these patterns. They are beautifully drafted and the instructions are exquisite, but you do need some sewing experience to get through it. There are lots of industry-level skills which are explained in an easy way, but you will still need to have been sewing for a little while.

  • Merchant and Mills

    Super cool aesthetic and nifty techniques.

  • Maven Patterns

Curvy patterns

Most indie pattern companies are now extending their size ranges in the name of inclusivity, so please don’t discount the designers above or below no matter what size you are!

Kids

  • Sew Pony

    Super cute frilly dresses and easy basics. Suz is really lovely and from Victoria.

  • Tadah Sewing Patterns

    I love the Seaside dress, Tea Party dress and the baby basics.

  • Hey There Threads

    I have made a bazillion of the basic collection shorts for my own and friends’ kids — they make a great present! They are sized well and easy to cut out a couple and sew up in a production line.

  • Brindle and Twig

    The stretchy patterns are great. I’ve made loads of my son’s tees and lots of my daughter’s twirly dresses from here.

  • Love Notions

    Great kids basics — we love the Vanguard tee and pants.

  • True Bias

    My son lives in the Mini Hudson pants in winter. I even make them for his school pants. The Mini Ringer tee is super cute too.

Accessories

  • Noodlehead

    Anna is Australian but lives in the US. Her bags are beautiful. The Petal Pouch is a great one to start your bag sewing journey.

  • LBG Studio
  • Kylie and the Machine

    Kylie, from Brisbane, is a sewing force! She sells groovy sew-in labels but also has a very popular pattern, the Ida clutch. Great to learn to sew a curved zip and even leather!

  • Emmaline Bags
  • Blogless Anna

    The Genoa tote is a fun sew. Make it in denim, leather or canvas. I’ve even made them as presents for the preschool teachers. You won’t be able to stop at one!

  • Tessuti

    A great beginner project is their cross-back apron!

I hope this has helped you get started. This list is really just the tip of the iceberg — you can trawl through Instagram, Pinterest or Etsy for many, many more!

Caz xxx

Ready to make something?

Browse our own patterns to download, or join a class in the studio.

Shop patterns →Browse classes